2021 | Egon Muller | Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett

Details

Sweet Wine: 2021 | Egon Muller | Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett

A wine that is so complex that you almost have the feeling of drinking several wines at the same time. However, each layer is so delicate that the overall impression of the wine is extremely fine, cool and delicate. It has a noticeable sweetness, which is perfectly balanced by a mineral saltiness, firm Riesling freshness and a slightly earthy note. Again, all of this is gossamer and subtle. A sublime, divine pleasure.

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Producer: Egon Muller

Ratings: MFW | 96 HL | 97+

Vintage: 2021

Size: 750ml

ABV: 8.5%

Varietal: Riesling

Country/Region: Germany, Mosel

A wine that is so complex that you almost have the feeling of drinking several wines at the same time. However, each layer is so delicate that the overall impression of the wine is extremely fine, cool and delicate. One must not forget this when reading the following aromas: peach, exotic fruits and pear, plus candied ginger, grapefruit, mango. It has a noticeable sweetness, which is perfectly balanced by a mineral saltiness, firm Riesling freshness and a slightly earthy note. Again, all of this is gossamer and subtle. A sublime, divine pleasure.

Reviews:

• Mosel Fine Wines: The 2021er Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett is a barely fruity-styled wine with a bright white-yellow color and a stunningly pure nose of white peach, citrusy fruits, white flowers, smoke, and a subtle dash of whipped cream. The wine proves stunningly vibrant on the almost off-dry tasting palate and leaves great notes of fresh herbs and spices in the long finish. The aftertaste is to die for as it proves airy, elegant, precise, and incredibly persistent. What a great success! The only downside is that one will need to be a bit patient and give the wine a few years in the bottle in order to allow it to integrate the touch of tartness currently floating around.

• Heiner Lobenberg: The typically ultra-fine nose of the Scharzhof in its purest form, very elegant, totally reduced, less fruit than in previous years, wet stone, flint, smokiness, maybe a very fine hint of cassis underneath. If 2020 was reminiscent of 2016 in its gentle hints and calm, the 2021 is more exciting, tighter, denser, more intense, more grippy, to a certain extent wilder, but with a totally cool, ultra-classic Steinwein typicality. Maybe a cooler 2019, maybe 2004, 2001 or something like that, but because of the high density it’s something very special. Actually, the wine is just liquid stone. Immense vibration on the tongue, the tannins bite into each other, a crass Scharzhof with an uncompromising pull, tight, almost explosive acid structure and so biting minerality, that you close your eyes. The residual sugar is moderate and you can tell that on the palate. The fantastically salty acidity condemns the sugar to complete irrelevance. A laster beam cabinet, the Scharzhof has not been so wild and exciting for a long time. Mega, but actually you have to lock this little monster away for 10 years.

Producer Information

Weingut Egon Mller is a renowned wine estate based just outside the village of Wiltingen in the Saar valley sub-region of the Mosel in Germany. It exclusively works with the Riesling grape, and is particularly known for its wines made from the exceptional Scharzhofberg vineyard southeast of Wiltingen. The current manager is Egon Mller IV, who studied his craft at the leading winemaking university at Geisenheim. The Egon Mller wines are produced at a range of ripeness levels, including Kabinett, Sptlese and Auslese, with Auslese Goldkapsel (literally “gold capsule”) made in the best years. If conditions allow, sweet Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein are also produced. The estate in its present form dates back to 1797, when Jean-Jacques Koch acquired the Scharzhof farm from the French republic. His daughter married Felix Mller, and the estate has remained in the same family ownership ever since. Egon Mller also produces top-class Riesling with Miroslav Petrech in Slovakia under the Chteau Bel label. In the Adelaide Hills region of Australia he collaborates with Michael Andrewarta of East End Cellars to make the dry Kanta Riesling from a vineyard owned by Shaw + Smith.